Anais Nin Meets Sohan Quadri
Silk Pyjamas and Tailored Pants, 2020
Photography by Aidan Doyle
Models: Christopher Chu, Elliot Bohlen, Hrishikesh Telang
Silk pyjamas constructed like trousers, Tailored jackets cut like racer-backs, a contemporary take on the kurta. These are all subverted takes on the items found in an Indian man’s wardrobe. Injecting Nin’s lush provocative imagery was done by way of highlighting the crotch, inner thigh and back, Sari blouse silhouettes that sit just a little too low, the yoke of a pant cut to look like briefs.
Striking hand-dyed gradients and the full use of a woven silk sari from 1964 ties these looks together. Looking at the construction of greek and Mughal garments, focal points of Nin’s research, was central to the colour and shape development.
Producing these pieces in quarantine allowed me to focus on simple, well-made garments. The racer-back blazer is pad-stitched and finished by hand. Having the time to understand how to work with lighter fabrics and focusing on cut rather than surface decoration allowed me to reduce the pieces down to their most refined and necessary forms.
Tailored Racerback Jacket Process
Patterns developed to skim the body with a slight A-line silhouette, reminiscent of Mughal robes
Although not eventually used, the original version of the collar was entirely pad stitched in the fern green wool
Facings done in delicate Chanderi Silk, dip-dyed to a gradient. Block fused to ensure a similar weight between the two fabrics
Bi-Color Flared Pajamas
Paired originally with an experimental silk shirt using Shingo Sato cutting. The front seams were first drawn on the body and emulate the slight curves of the thigh
The interiors are French-seamed to prevent fraying.
The deadstock wool and wide-wale corduroy version was overlocked before being assembled. Keeping the elastic waist and cutting the wool yoke on the bias created a structured pant-pajama hybrid.
Sari Blouse Tank Top Development (silk crepe and decayed vintage silk sari)
The front panel is cut from my grandmother’s decayed silk sari.
Sewing the silk crepe with the sari proved to be challenging as the silk continuously got pulled into the machine.
However, gathering the frayed sides and hand- finishing any temperamental seams worked. The top is finished with a double stitched hem and box pleated neck.
